Showing posts with label Morocco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Morocco. Show all posts

Rabat
Rabat from across the river
Hassan Tower, Rabat
Rabat is the current capital of modern Morocco and has much to thank the French for, its well designed boulevards are a perfect setting for the culture and grandeur a state capital should offer. The Royal Palace, the unfinished mosque with its striking Hassan Tower, the necropolis at Chellah and the grand Mauosoleum of the Kings (Mohammed V and Hassan II) are a perfect combination of sights for the visitor. Rabat has a human scale and even its medina and souk are laid back and laid out in grid pattern. Rabat is a great day out if you are staying nearby as it has excellent train connections from Casablanca, Fes, Meknes and Marrakech. Gardens, promenades, great avenues and a broad array of festivals: Rabat takes the time to live life to the full.
The frenetic activity down by the river and the peace of the Kasbah make up the hidden gem of Morocco - do not miss.  
We have chosen:

La Tour Hassan
Villa Mandarine
Riad Kalaa
La Tour Hassan Hotel, Rabat
Villa Mandarine, Rabat
Riad Kalaa
Rabat's premier hotel, old world style and modern luxury together with an excellent location.
A wonderful find, a small family-run guest house transformed from a mansion house; full of luxury and character.
A high quality riad property in the heart of the medina ramparts, only a few steps from the ocean. The Riad Kalaa, originally built in 1815, has undergone a thorough restoration.


Skhirat Plage
Golden Tulip Hotel, Rabat
Recently fully refurbished, great location next to the Hassan Tower and the overlooking the river too.
A good budget hotel in the very centre of Rabat.
L’Amphitrite Palace sits majestically in manicured gardens next to its Atlantic Ocean beach. This hotel offers five-star luxury away from the madding crowd of the city.
Sightseeing: start your tour in the south of the city, the gardens on Mechouar Square await you for a stroll by the Royal Palace. Go back towards the town centre and take the time to visit the archaeological museum: it has some excellent exhibits from the excavations at several of the country’s archaeological sites, notably Volubilis and Lixus. Also in the town centre, you will find Mohammed V Avenue, lined with art deco buildings, with its wide avenues and parks, this area of the city harmoniously borders the old medina.
A fabulous medina: Made of adobe in the 12th century, the Andalusian ramparts protect the south side of the medina. The rectilinear layout of the old city is impressive as it is very different from the traditional mazes of streets. You can enter through the Bab El Had gate, scene of the Sunday market. This is where Souika street begins, the biggest and probably most animated in the medina. It leads to the Great Mosque and ends up at the Souk Es Sebat, the shoe market covered with reed mats and overflowing with hundreds of babouches, leather and handcraft goods and gold and silver jewellery. Then, along Rue des Consuls, which is partially covered by glass roofs, artisans work before your eyes on their deep-pile carpets, fabrics and copper objects. Heading back north, you approach the gate of the Oudayas.
Oudayas Kasbah: This fortress quarter conserved its old cannons positioned on a bulwark. Beautiful and massive, its door is carved from top to bottom, and one of the towers houses three art galleries. The white and blue facades create a very Mediterranean ambiance. Its cobblestone streets lead to El Atiqa mosque, the city’s oldest, and then to the platform of the ancient semaphore. From here, as from the terrace of café Maure just nearby, the view of Rabat, its neighbour Salé, and the meeting of Bouregreg river and the ocean is simply splendid. From up high, the Oudayas Palace, which today houses the national museum, has conserved its original ornamentations, imprints of sobriety and equilibrium. The Andalusian garden at its feet is a haven of peacefulness full of fruit trees, rosebays and cascades of bougainvilleas.
City gate, Rabat
entrance to the Chellah, Rabat
Lighthouse, Rabat
Sightseeing nearby: Beyond the city’s ramparts, other walls conceal an enchanting place: this small, fertile valley, with its prickly pear trees, palm trees and olive trees, was chosen by the Merinides dynasty in the 13th century to accommodate their final residency. Stroll through the sepulchres in the shade of the ruins of a sanctuary where the minaret acts as refuge to the storks. A little further along stand other ruins of a more distant past: those of Sala la Romaine. From the other side of the mouth of Bouregreg river, Salé, the old city of pirates, faces the capital. Founded before Rabat at the start of the 12th century, its medina, lined with fountains, magnificent riads, and mosques, buzzes with activity. Don’t forget the Medersa, the Koranic school, a renowned chef d’oeuvre of Merinides art. Be sure to visit the Chellah necropolis, this peaceful place, the last residence of the Merinide sovereigns, it is protected by imposing walls, where storks like to build their nests. This is also where the old Roman city of Salé uses to be. You will admire the ruins of a triumphal arch, the forum, thermal bathes and several shops.
Festivals: In Rabat, the year is brimming with a wide variety of events and festivals, bearing witness to great cultural dynamism. In May, music holds the place of honour in the Mawazine world music festival. The International Alternative Film Festival takes place in June, and music returns to centre stage in November with the Plucked String Instrument Festival. An ancestral tradition persists on rue des Consuls in the medina in the area covered by glass ceilings. Every Monday and Thursday morning, a rug auction takes place. A guaranteed spectacle. An art gallery in the wall - The magnificent Bab Rouah, the "Gate of the Winds", is monumental. It stands out for the richness of its adornments. It has become a gallery for exhibitions. Under the elaborate arches of the four square rooms, the works of famous Moroccan artists have found their venue.
The Candles Festival - Every year in the month of May, the city of Salé celebrates Sidi Abdallah Ben Hassoune, the city's saint, during the Candles Festival. Accompanied by musiciens and flag bearers, a long parade of men in colourful attire and carrying huge wax lamps comprised of thousands of sculpted and dyed pieces, moves through the city's main streets to arrive at the holy man marabout.
Military ceremonies - Every day at exactly 10:45 AM, you can enter the court of the barracks of the royal guard to attend the ceremony of the hoisting of the colours - the hoisting of the national flag. Also spectacular is the changing of the mounted guard, which takes place every day at 7:00 AM before the Hassan Tower. From the esplanade of this tower, cannon shots are fired the evening before the main religious festivals.

 rediscover.co.uk

 
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Saturday was the last full day for the week-long visit of my friend and colleague from France, Laure-Hélène. We have been exploring Morocco together and hatching plans for our students to work on common projects together. She teaches Latin, French, and Drama in Pézenas, France (in southern France, near Montpelier) and we are looking forward to collaborating together on lessons.

We decided to spend Saturday exploring Rabat, the Capital of Morocco. We took a 25 minute train ride from Kénitra to Rabat in a very comfortable, modern, and air-conditioned train. Upon our arrival in Rabat, we took a taxi to the Kasbah of the Udayas. This is the historic fortress and walled city built by the Udaya dynasty. Here is a picture of the main entrance, followed by a picture of me outside the main entrance:
We toured an art exhibit in the gallery located just inside the main door at the top of the steps, then we came back down and entered through a side door to get to the art & history Museum of the Undayas. We toured an exhibit about Moroccan jewelry from pre-historic man to present times. I thought the exhibit was beautiful, but I was disturbed that no mention was made of the importance of Jewish craftspeople in designing and producing Moroccan jewelry for the better part of two millennia. Clearly, Morocco still has a way to go in openly honoring its Jewish heritage.

Just outside the Museum of the Udayas is a beautiful garden full of flowers and shade where Moroccans gather for friendly conversation in the summer heat. I was impressed by the number of locals in an place of such interest to tourists. Here is a picture in the garden:
One of the most remarkable things in Morocco is the beauty of their doors. Here are two doors inside the Garden of the Udayas. They are painted in a traditional style and quite beautiful. Before houses were numbered and easy to locate, I've been told that Moroccans would give the name of their street and then a description of their door, so there is a reason for this beautiful art:
Just beyond the Garden of the Udayas, there is the Café Udaya where we stopped for hot tea and Moroccan cookies. The café itself is a covered balcony that looks down on the Oued Bou Regreg, the river that separates Rabat from its twin city, Salé. In the distance you can see the city of Salé:
While we were relaxing and enjoying the view in the café, we met an American college student who is studying Arabic in Morocco. He is attending the American University in Ifrane, Morocco, but he is originally from New Jersey.

After our break at the café, we decided to wander through the old city or medina. Just at the exit of the café was such a picturesque street that I decided to get a picture of Laure-Hélène. Later, we saw this exact spot on a postcard:
As we wandered through the medina, we eventually came to the Rue des Consuls. This is a beautiful, covered market area where traditional Moroccan handcrafts are sold. It is covered with an awning from the French colonial era, as you can see in this picture:
While we were wandering in the Rue des Consuls, I came upon a shop with very beautiful books and postcards to benefit the building of a school in the very poor Rif region of northern Morocco. The shop is part of a Moroccan non-governmental organization that is working on building schools in poor, remote regions of Morocco. I am excited to have found this shop and the woman who runs it for such a worthy cause. I plan to meet up with her again so we can develop a plan. This would be the perfect project for my students in French National Honor Society.

As I look at a map of Rabat, we really walked quite a distance all over the city. After we left the Rue des Consuls, we walked to another historic site in Rabat: The Hassan Tower and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. The Hassan Tower (or Tour Hassan, in French and as it is called in Morocco) is the minaret of an incomplete mosque that was built in 1195 AD under the reign of Sultan Yacoub Al-Mansour. He intended this mosque to be the largest in the world, but he died in 1199 AD and the building of the mosque was stopped. You can read more about it here. As we approached the tower, I took this picture:
As you can see in this picture, there are many walls around historic sites and many of Morocco's oldest cities have long stretches of walls that used to protect the city from invaders. These walls have holes in them and the best explanation for these holes is that they represent where the builders put wood planks to support the scaffolding as they were building or repairing the walls and after the walls were built, the holes serve the purpose of allowing the walls to "breathe", thus preventing cracks and fissures in the walls. The holes do not go all the way through the wall, so you cannot really see into them. Here is a picture of the wall at the base of the Hassan Tower:
Outside the Hassan Tower there is an array of pillars which had served as a support for the mosque there:
At the opposite end of the esplanade from the Hassan Tower, there is the Mausoleum of Mohammed V. He was the King who took over when the French Protectorate in Morocco ended in 1956. In fact, he led the first Friday call to prayers after the French left from the Hassan Tower in what is an iconic moment in the memory of Moroccans about their King. When he died, his son became Hassan II and had a beautiful mausoleum built for his father at this site. Hassan II is now buried at this mausoleum as well and his son, Mohammed VI, is the current King of Morocco. Here is a pictures from the outside of the mausoleum (pictures were not allowed inside):
This is one of the guards at one of the doors into the mausoleum. Notice his beautiful uniform. I remember reading a quote from General Patton saying that he considered the Moroccan military uniforms the most beautiful. I can see his point:
We took a taxi back to the heart of Rabat and went for a walk in the shade along the Avenue Mohammed V. There were all kinds of people out and about. We especially enjoyed watching the families with their little children feeding the pigeons. Rabat is really a very beautiful and green city with many trees and gardens:
For dinner, we followed the recommendation in Laure-Hélène's French guidebook, Le Guide du Routard: Maroc, and went to a reasonably priced restaurant near the main train station in Rabat. The restaurant's name is "Tagines wa Tangia" ("wa" means "and" in Moroccan dialect). This restaurant was amazing! The décor was replete with Moroccan traditional wares from all over: Carpets, brass fixtures, earthenware, wooden instruments, iron sculptures, etc. Before I describe our meal, let me give you some explanation: Tagines are Moroccan stews made in a special earthen dish with a conical lid. The dish itself is called a tagine and the stews you make in a tagine are also called tagines. For example, my favorite tagine is chicken with preserved lemons and olives. Tangia is a specialty from Marrakech and it is also a type of stew made with meat and sauce cooked in an earthenware vessel covered with burning coals. Tangias are very fragrant and are best eaten piping hot. Both tagines and tangia are eaten with your hands using fresh bread as a sort of scoop.

Our meal began with bisara or a delicious puree of fava beans:
bisara.
Of course, we scooped this bisara up with delicious, whole wheat, homemade Moroccan bread which has a nice crust on the outside, is just shy of 2 inches thick, and has a soft inside:
Along with the bisara, we ate Moroccan green olives. There is every variety of olive here and they have countless spices to use in curing their olives, so eating olives is really one of the great pleasures of being in Morocco. Notice in the picture how they serve olives in a little dish with an extra side bowl attached for the pits:
Then we had one of the most delicious salads I have ever eaten. It was made with butter lettuce, very fresh goat cheese, walnuts, raisins, and aromatic argan oil (a Moroccan delicacy and specialty): (sorry, I didn't get to take the picture 'til most of the salad was gone!)
Then we enjoyed a "Best of Tagine wa Tangia" platter which included a selection of braewats (think: egg rolls, but stuffed with Moroccan ingredients such as lamb and chicken with lots of exotic spices), eggplant and tomato puree (a salad served warm, eaten with the bread), grilled chicken and beef, and veal tangia:
Finally, we were served more veal tangia at our table by the chef who brought out an earthenware pot with an aluminum foil seal over the top. He punched the foil with his fist and pop! The tangia came steaming and pouring out of the pot. It was very fragrant and the meat literally fell from the bones. It was incredibly delicious!
Just as we were finished eating, the lute player arrived and began setting up for that night's performance. I told him I was a teacher and he graciously agreed to let me film him playing his lute so my students could see (I wish I could upload the video here, but this feature doesn't seem to be working tonight --- I'll try to upload it later).

Our wonderful dinner was the perfect end to our final day of touring Morocco together. We talked and ate and looked back on our very full week of touring with laughter and nostalgia. I am so grateful to the Fund for Teachers which has made this trip possible! I know that my students will love learning about all the places I have been able to visit, but even more, I look forward to sharing with them this amazingly rich and diverse culture.
 
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